Bangladesh is going through a period of intense protests by thousands of workers over the setting of a minimum wage in the garment sector, facing ramifications on many levels.
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The country of Bangladesh holds in its hands almost the entire fast fashion production industry worldwide. The majority of popular fashion brands basically manufacture their products there due to the cheap labor force. Some examples of companies are Zara, H&M, Levi's, Marks&Spencer etc. The working conditions amount to impoverishment as they aim to exploit factory workers, forcing them to work non-stop several hours a day without permits, without safety measures or hygiene rules and with minimum wage.
Despite the inhumane conditions, the garment sector employs about 4 million Bangladeshi citizens as there are 3,500 manufacturing industries. Therefore, the fast fashion industry dominates as it accounts for 16% of the country's GDP.
In 2018, the country's government voted to set the minimum wage at 8,000 taka (58 pounds) per month, a resolution that is still in effect today. Now the government is in the midst of negotiations to double the floor to 12,500 taka (£90), once again a paltry amount. The implementation of doubling was planned for 1the December. But the citizens reacted to the exploitation promoted by their own state instead of protecting them, resulting in mass protests and demonstrations in the capital, Dhaka. The request of the workers is that the minimum should amount to 23,000 taka (208$), to be able to cover even the basic needs of themselves and their relatives.
During their demonstrations, the workers caused damage to hundreds of businesses, which led to the intervention of the police. In an attempt to suppress any form of rebellion the industries themselves and the police use violence, threats and beatings. On the business side, the employees have received a message about possible dismissal. Also, not only injured by the police fire, but also almost 10 dead. In fact, for exactly the same reasons there were protests in 2016 and 2019.
28-year-old Naima Islam works in the machinery management branch of a local business and reported to The Guardian: "They try in every way to make us shut up, but we don't bend." He added, "We may be experiencing beatings and violence but what they don't understand is that we have nothing to lose at all. If we accept their proposals, we will starve to death anyway.''
The protesters who have poured into the streets want equal rights, nothing unreasonable. The fast fashion industry has almost entirely relied on them to bring significant profits to Bangladesh, but receiving such treatment obviously does not appreciate his hard work.
The Clean Clothes Campaign, which is the most powerful alliance of trade unions and NGOs in the clothing sector, published article on the working conditions in Bangladesh due to the strong reactions of the people. The campaign claims that it is actually the big name companies themselves who are responsible for the "degrading" wages, the consequent reaction of the suppliers to raise the floor, since they have a vested interest and enjoy the real income. Thus, he complains that "many brands put pressure on suppliers to keep costs down at all costs". These practices are confirmed by study of the International Labor Organization proving that international brands exert pressure for low prices on production manufacturers.
At the moment, attention is also focused on the corporate social responsibility of these international companies. Most claim that the conditions of the production workers and the sustainability of their goods are of the utmost importance, but often many only like the words and not the deeds.
Marks & Spencer he replied directly about the policy he supports in conjunction with the labor protests in Bangladesh saying "These are very serious allegations and we are investigating them as a matter of urgency. We would never tolerate violence or intimidation of workers, and we set out very clearly in our global sourcing principles that workers must be guaranteed freedom of association.”
Because of all these strikes and intense protests in Bangladesh it is very likely that the course of fast fashion will be affected in the near future. Since many factories have suffered losses, others have stopped production, it is considered a blow to the industry as it will eventually run out of stocks. As consumers we have the obligation to investigate the companies we choose and above all to prefer companies that are clear about the policies they follow. So the solution to the problem is respect for rights.
The government, the police, the manufacturing industries in Bangladesh need to change direction and strengthen the workforce in the best possible way that provides an annual export of 55 billion.
*Cover photo: British Vogue
